Did you know – from the fruit grower’s notebook

Below you will find practical notes from our fruit tree nursery. Each little “note” is one experience from the orchard – ready to be used in your garden.

1. Trees planted in autumn root better.The soil is still warm and the autumn rainfall gives them a calm start, so they start growing in spring faster than those planted in March.
2. Proper watering after planting is the key for the tree to establish.The first 4 weeks are the most important – the soil should be constantly moist, but not wet, so the roots have good conditions for growth.
3. Apple trees grow best in sunny, airy locations.Sites that are too shady reduce yield and fruit quality, so it is worth choosing well-lit areas of the garden for them.
4. Young trees should be staked.Thanks to stakes, wind does not loosen the root system and the tree grows straight, which makes further crown training easier.
5. The first pruning after planting is essential.It helps the tree develop a strong central leader and an even crown, and it balances the top growth with the roots.
6. Columnar varieties are perfect for small gardens.They grow narrow and do not spread sideways, yet they still crop well, so they can even be planted along paths or on small plots.
7. Pear trees yield better when different varieties grow side by side.Good pollination can increase the crop by several dozen percent, so choosing compatible varieties is worthwhile.
8. Apricots are best planted in sites sheltered from the wind.Their flowers are very sensitive to frost, so the protection of a building wall or hedge can help them a lot.
9. Sweet cherries require light, well-drained soil.On heavy, waterlogged ground they may become diseased and grow poorly, so sometimes it is worth improving the soil structure before planting.
10. Peach trees like strong rejuvenating pruning.Regular removal of old shoots makes the tree crop heavily and produce many young, vigorous shoots.
11. Whitewashing trunks in winter protects the bark from cracking.Temperature fluctuations cause so-called frost cracks, and a layer of lime reflects sunlight and reduces warming of the trunk.
12. Mulching improves soil moisture and reduces weeds.Bark, wood chips or straw form a natural protection for the roots, help keep water in the soil and reduce the need for weeding.
13. Sour cherries are more frost-hardy than sweet cherries.They perform better in colder regions of the country and more often succeed where sweet cherries may freeze.
14. Organic fertilisation is best done in autumn.Manure or compost then has time to break down slowly and the nutrients will be available to the trees in spring.
15. Plums like to grow in groups of several varieties.Many of them need a pollinator to crop abundantly, so it is worth planting at least two different trees.
16. Planting depth has a huge impact on the health of the tree.If planted too deep, it can rot at the base of the trunk; if too shallow, it can dry out and root poorly.
17. A watering basin around the tree makes watering after planting easier.Thanks to it, water does not run off to the sides but soaks in exactly where it should – in the root zone.
18. The choice of rootstock affects vigour and tree size.Dwarfing rootstocks produce smaller trees that come into bearing more quickly, but they usually need support.
19. Disease-resistant apple varieties are ideal for beginners.They require fewer sprays and are easier to manage, which will be especially appreciated by those taking their first steps in fruit growing.
20. Too much fertiliser does more harm than too little.Over-fertilised trees grow very vigorously but crop poorly and are more prone to diseases and frost damage.
21. Summer pruning helps to limit tree growth.It is a good way to keep crowns under control, especially in small gardens where every metre counts.
22. Currants and gooseberries should be regularly rejuvenated.Removing old shoots every few years increases yield, improves the health of the bush and the quality of the fruit.
23. Highbush blueberries require acidic soil.They grow best at a pH of 3.5–4.5, which is why they are often planted in special peat mixtures and liming is avoided.
24. Strong wind can hinder tree pollination.In sheltered places bees and bumblebees work more calmly and efficiently, which translates into better yields.
25. Young trees do not like competition from grass.It is worth removing the turf in a radius of 40–60 cm around the trunk so that grass does not “take” water and nutrients from them.
26. Thinning out the crown reduces the risk of fungal diseases.Light and air circulation inside the crown are natural prevention against many pathogens.
27. Sweet and sour cherries do not tolerate being transplanted after a few years.It is best to find them a permanent place right away, because older trees are very hard to establish after being moved.
28. Too heavy a fruit set can weaken the tree.Thinning the fruitlets helps obtain larger, tastier fruit and prevents the plant from being overworked.
29. Many apple varieties crop better with a suitable pollinator.The presence of a compatible variety nearby improves the size, colour and quality of the fruit.
30. Watering in late summer affects the crop in the following year.This is when flower buds are formed, and a lack of water can limit flowering and fruiting in the next season.
31. In early spring it is worth checking trunks for rodent damage.Small injuries can be protected with wound sealant to limit the entry of diseases and speed up healing.
32. When planting, the position of the graft union is important.It should be a few centimetres above the soil level so the rootstock does not sink too deeply and start to rot.
33. Self-fertile varieties are a good choice for small gardens.They fruit even when planted alone, so they are ideal where there is only space for one tree.
34. Planting trees too close together restricts light access.This leads to smaller fruit and higher susceptibility to diseases, so it is worth keeping the recommended spacing.
35. Soaking the roots before planting increases the chances of success.A few hours in water allows the tree to rehydrate its tissues well after being dug from the ground.
36. Spring fertilisation with nitrogen stimulates trees to grow.In late summer it is better to avoid it so that the shoots have time to ripen and prepare well for winter.
37. Apple trees on dwarf rootstocks crop sooner.They take up less space but usually require permanent supports so they do not lean over under the weight of the fruit.
38. Soil rich in humus holds moisture better.Adding compost improves soil structure for years and supports the development of beneficial microorganisms.
39. Sour cherries are best pruned in summer.Winter pruning favours diseases of bark and wood, so it is safer to prune them after harvest.
40. Planting trees along a fence gives them natural protection.The fence shields them from the wind, but you should keep enough distance so the roots can develop freely.
41. Late apple varieties are better suited for storage.They tolerate long storage in cool rooms well and are ideal for home larders.
42. Fruit trees do not like standing water.Waterlogging in the soil can cause root rot, so on wet sites it is worth installing drainage or building raised beds.
43. The most vigorous growth of trees occurs in the first five years after planting.This is when the framework of the crown is formed, so correct training is especially important at this stage.
44. Using mycorrhiza at planting strengthens the tree.The fungal mycelium helps roots take up water and nutrients, which gives the plant a better start.
45. Early plum varieties taste best fresh.They often handle transport and storage less well, whereas later varieties are better suited for preserves.
46. Too much nitrogen promotes leaf growth at the expense of fruit.Overfed trees grow lush, but the yield is weaker and the flavour less concentrated.
47. Peach trees require warm, sunny sites.Even slight shading can delay ripening and worsen the colouring of the fruit.
48. Regular weeding around young trees is crucial.Weeds, especially grasses, compete with them for water and nutrients and weaken their growth.
49. Strong-growing rootstocks produce tall, wide-spreading trees.They are best suited to larger gardens and traditional orchards where there is room for them to develop.
50. Currants and gooseberries crop best on 2–3-year-old shoots.Systematic rejuvenation of the bushes keeps yields even and the fruit large.
51. In dry years it is better to water less often but thoroughly.Deep watering encourages the roots to grow into deeper soil layers, which increases drought resistance.
52. Apricot flowers open very early in the season.This makes them particularly vulnerable to frost, so in colder regions apricots are best planted against a warm house wall.
53. Sandy soils require more frequent watering and fertilising.Improving them with compost increases their ability to store water and reduces its leaching into deeper soil layers.
54. Young apple shoots should be corrected early.The correct branch angle affects later fruiting and the strength of the limbs under the weight of the crop.
55. Many pear varieties ripen only after harvest.This is completely natural – it is enough to store the fruit at home for a few days for them to develop full flavour and aroma.
56. Plum trees are among the least demanding fruit trees.They grow well even on somewhat poorer soils and often forgive minor mistakes in care.
57. Removing so-called water sprouts improves light penetration into the crown.The strong, upright shoots take light away from the fruit, so they should be cut out or lowered regularly.
58. Not every disease requires an immediate chemical spray.Often a well-ventilated, thinned crown and systematic removal of affected leaves or fruit are enough.
59. Sweet cherries cope better with drought than with excess water.On waterlogged sites they grow poorly and are more often diseased, so such locations should be avoided when planting.
60. Autumn watering of trees is very important.Well-watered roots withstand winter and frost better, and the plant starts into growth more quickly in spring.