The apricot is a heat-loving stone-fruit tree with exceptionally sweet, aromatic fruit. It flowers very early, so a warm, sheltered position and protecting the blossom from frost are crucial. Below is a practical guide from the Drzewka Kusek nursery.

  • Harcot – Canadian, productive and frost-hardy; tasty, orange fruit.
  • Goldrich – large, firm fruit; good for dessert and preserves.
  • Somo – self-fertile, productive and relatively frost-hardy.
  • Morden Early – Canadian, early and frost-hardy.
  • Hungarian Best (Węgierska) – a classic, sweet, reliably cropping variety.

Apricot tree seedlings – rootstocks and position

The apricot flowers exceptionally early, which makes its blossom very vulnerable to spring frosts. It needs a warm, sunny and sheltered spot (ideally south-facing) on permeable, not-too-wet soil.

  • Myrobalan plum (seedling) – versatile and less demanding as to soil; a popular rootstock for apricots and peaches.
  • Apricot or peach seedling – good compatibility and vigorous growth, giving sizeable trees.

Fertilising apricots – what is worth knowing?

  • In spring – moderate nitrogen fertilising to support growth and fruit set.
  • In summer and autumn – potassium and phosphorus improving fruit flavour and preparing the tree for winter.
  • It is worth using compost and keeping the soil fertile and permeable.

Avoid excess nitrogen – it delays shoot ripening and increases the risk of frost damage.

Pruning apricots – how and when?

Apricots fruit on spurs and one-year-old shoots, so pruning should be moderate but regular:

  • Prune preferably on warm, dry days – ideally in summer, after harvest; wounds heal faster, which limits infections (bacterial canker).
  • Thin the canopy, removing crowding shoots for better light access and airflow.
  • Avoid hard pruning on cool, damp days – it favours infection of the wounds by pathogens.

Apricot diseases and how to prevent them

  • Brown rot (Monilinia) – the most serious; it attacks blossom, shoots and fruit. Protection during flowering and removing mummified fruit are key.
  • Bacterial canker of stone fruit – gum oozing and dieback of shoots; prune on dry days and protect the wounds.
  • Shot hole – holes in the leaves; a well-ventilated canopy and copper protection help.

Pests

  • Aphids – deform leaves and weaken young growth.
  • Spider mites – cause silvering and drying of leaves.
  • Codling moth and leaf rollers – damage fruit and shoots.

Regular monitoring, supporting natural enemies and timely protective treatments all help.

Apricot tree seedlings – care calendar

  • Spring: protect blossom from frost, spray against brown rot during flowering, nitrogen feeding.
  • Summer: pruning after harvest, watering in drought, pest monitoring.
  • Autumn: potassium-phosphorus feeding, raking leaves, protecting the trees.
  • Winter: frost protection, whitewashing trunks, checking tree condition.